The data network lost its connection to the body control module (BCM), which runs much of the car's electrical body functions — usually a power, ground, connector, or wiring fault.
Usually drivable, but confirm that headlights, wipers, and locks work before driving at night or in bad weather.
Reviewed by ratchit Automotive Solutions for clarity and inspection-first safety framing. Not a substitute for professional diagnosis.
Use this guide to decide what to inspect first, what it may cost, and when to move from DIY checks to professional diagnosis.
U0140 is a clue, not a confirmed diagnosis. Inspect simple causes before replacing parts.
Can you keep driving?
Best first DIY check
Don't replace this first
When to seek a shop
Recommended next action
Inspection cost
Free OBD2 read at most parts stores
DIY parts cost
$0–$700
Inspect first before replacing parts.
Shop diagnostic cost
$80–$150 (typical shop diagnostic fee)
Shop repair cost
$75–$1,100
Diagnostic uncertainty: This code points to a system or condition, not a guaranteed failed part. Inspect before replacing.
Cost variation: Costs vary by vehicle, location, part quality, labor rate, and the confirmed root cause.
These checks are cheap, fast, and rule out the most common causes before spending money on parts.
Save this issue to My Garage, track what you inspect, and build service history for this vehicle.
V-IQ readiness preview: Medium impact — resolving and tracking this issue may improve your V-IQ readiness. Tracking active codes and resolutions builds a service history we use to estimate V-IQ readiness over time.
U0140 means the network stopped hearing from the body control module (BCM). The BCM is the quiet workhorse of the car's electrical system: exterior and interior lighting, door locks, power windows, wipers, chimes, and on many vehicles part of the start circuit all run through it. When it drops off the bus, the symptoms look scattered and random — a dead dome light next to wipers that will not park, locks that ignore the key fob, chimes that have gone silent, or a car that will not crank at all. That scattered pattern is exactly the clue: one module going quiet explains several unrelated-looking faults at once, so do not chase each symptom separately. The causes are the same short list that applies to every U-code. Low battery or low system voltage is first, and it is the most common finding, so test the battery and charging system before touching anything else. Then grounds: a corroded or loose BCM ground creates exactly this behaviour and costs almost nothing to fix. Then fuses, then the connector. BCMs are frequently mounted behind a kick panel or under the dash, where a plugged sunroof drain, a leaking windshield seal, or a wet floor can reach them, so look for water staining around the module and corrosion on the pins. Chafed or broken bus wiring rounds out the list. A replacement BCM has to be programmed to the vehicle and often needs a key or immobiliser relearn, which makes it both expensive and slow — a poor first guess and a reasonable last one. Verify power, ground, fuses, connectors, and bus wiring first, and if several U-codes are stored together, treat a shared power, ground, or bus fault as the more likely explanation than several failed modules.
Steps ordered by urgency — tackle Now items first.
Fixes listed in order of likelihood and cost-efficiency.
Run a free maintenance scan to see what else needs attention based on your year, make, model, mileage, and climate.
Ranges vary by vehicle, region, and shop. Use as a ballpark — always get a quote.
DIY estimate
$0 – $40
Shop estimate
$75 – $160
DIY estimate
$75 – $200
Shop estimate
$150 – $350
DIY estimate
$300 – $700
Shop estimate
$400 – $1,100
Cost data is estimated and may not reflect your specific vehicle or location.
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